Showing posts with label Vegetable Gardening. Show all posts

Is growing your own fruit and vegetables the best way to lower your carbon footprint?

By Ken Thompson
I hope we agree that gardening is good for you, whatever you decide to grow. Indeed, a fair case can be made for the value of just sipping a gin and tonic while watching the weeds grow. But, I would also submit, the very highest level of satisfaction comes from growing at least some of your own food. Quite apart from the fresh air and exercise involved in the actual cultivation, and the health benefits of eating your own fresh produce, the environmentally aware gardener will be chuffed by reducing a few food miles, and thus doing their bit to save the planet.
If the latter consideration is important to you, though, what should you grow? Specifically, what will lower your food-related carbon footprint the most?
This is no joke: the growing, transportation, packaging, retailing and cooking of food, together with the clearing of land to grow food in the first place, accounts for as much as 30 per cent of Britain's carbon footprint. A recent paper in the journal "Landscape and Urban Planning" considered this question, specifically in the context of urban farms, but the principles apply equally to the private gardener.
Grow your own veg, save the planet
A key consideration, not surprisingly, is yield – all things being equal, you're better off growing high-yielding crops than low-yielding ones. So courgettes, for example, which are both high-yielding and also almost entirely imported, are a good choice. But yield isn't everything: potatoes are almost all grown in Britain and their carbon footprint is small, so little is gained (in CO2 terms) by growing your own. Sometimes yield outweighs other concerns. Although it takes a lot of energy (and therefore CO2 emissions) to manufacture a greenhouse or polytunnel, the higher yield of greenhouse-grown tomatoes more than compensates for that. Tomatoes are also mostly imported, and even those grown in Britain come from heated greenhouses that use a lot of energy. Strawberries, on the other hand, are not worth growing in a polytunnel – at least not to save CO2 emissions – because yields are much lower than tomatoes.
Sometimes the CO2 emissions from transport are of primary importance. Exhibit A here is green beans, which are imported year-round in large quantities by Britain from outside Europe, mostly from Kenya. Only in mid to late summer do home-grown beans make a dent in our imports. Because the beans are imported by air, their carbon footprint is huge, making it very worthwhile to grow your own. Here, however, the arguments start to get more complicated. First, "CO2-saving" depends on the assumption that your own produce directly substitutes for (imported) produce from the shops.
If you care about your carbon footprint, though, maybe you wouldn't consider buying beans airfreighted from Africa in the first place? In which case, your CO2 saving is more notional, and depends on the carbon footprint of what you would eat (if you weren't growing your own). Plus, there's always the difficulty of the welfare of the two million Kenyans who depend on us to buy their fruit, flowers and vegetables.
Grow your own veg, save the planet
Beans growing in Kenya. Working out the carbon footprint of food is not simple
If we grow all the right things, how well are we doing, relatively speaking? That all depends on what you choose to compare it with. Planting trees soaks up CO2, but growing your own fruit and veg does much better, in fact about 10 times better, than planting trees on the same land. On the other hand, most of the emissions of CO2 (and other greenhouse gases) from food come from the production and consumption of meat and dairy products.
If you gave up eating meat, or significantly reduced your consumption, your carbon footprint would be greatly improved, almost irrespective of where your fruit and veg came from.
Ken Thompson is a plant biologist with a keen interest in the science of gardening. He writes and lectures extensively and has written four gardening books, including 'Compost' and 'No Nettles Required'. His latest book is 'Do We Need Pandas? The Uncomfortable Truth About Biodiversity'.
Source: image

By Engr Kamran Bukhsh Soomro
PARC, Southern Agriculture Research Center, University Campus, University Road Karachi Pakistan
OKRA, called Bhindi, is cultivated in tropical, sub-tropical and warm temperate regions. It can also be grown in the coastal areas of Pakistan.
The length of the country’s coast is about 1,100kms which ranges from Gwadar in Balochistan to Badin in Sindh. Malir and other adjacent districts of Karachi come under the coastal area.Where there is shortage of water, drip irrigation system can be adopted. It is a system that applies water and fertilisers directly to the root zone of individual plant instead of irrigating the entire area with flood or sprinkler irrigation. The system comprises pipeline network as main, sub-main, lateral lines and emitters or tricklers which are fitted on laterals from which water is delivered to the plant at a low pressure.Growing okra in coastal areas
Under proper management, drip irrigation system is capable of saving water, as only the plant’s root zone is supplied with water; under this system, the use of water is efficient with higher crop yield as compared to traditional irrigation method.
In the coastal areas, the groundwater is saline ranging from marginal to hazardous quality and can be used for cultivation of okra and other vegetables. The Coastal Agricultural Research Station of PARC has taken an initiative for using marginal quality irrigation water in comparison to good quality water under drip irrigation system.
The amount of water applied through drip system to okra crop was 6,989.7m3/ha. The crop yield and water use efficiency was 16.96t/ha and 2.43 kg/ respectively. Thus, it was concluded that okra crop can be grown successfully on a sandy loam soil using saline (marginal quality) ground water for irrigation.
Okra has a great potential in coastal areas. Growers should be made aware of the use of saline ground water for vegetable cultivation.

FacebookControlled and on-spot irrigation through drip system seems the only appropriate method to grow and sustain horticultural activities in this region.
It shall not only provide the required water to the plant but will also resist salt built up in the root. Another possibility may be prevention of diseases particularly of fungal origin.
However, there is need for more research on the use of saline ground water for cultivation of winter and summer vegetable crops and fruit orchards in the coastal belts of Sindh and Balochistan under the drip irrigation system for the benefit of the people of these area.
Courtesy: The DAWN

Pesticides and Vegetable Disease ControlFungicides can be a great help in preventing diseases when properly applied to the plant foliage. Since fungicides are preventive, they should be applied before the disease occurs, or as soon as the first symptoms of disease appear.
Some vegetable diseases require specific fungicides for their control. An outline of diseases of specific vegetables, disease description, suggested cultural and chemical control and comments follows this section.
Fungicides are available primarily as wet-table powders, dry flowables and dusts, but a few are sold as emulsifiable concentrates, flowables and liquids. Wettable powders (WP) and dry flowable (DF) are formulated in such a manner as to be readily suspendable in water. Dusts (D) should not be mixed in water, but applied directly to the plant. Emulsifiable concentrate (EC) fungicides contain an emulsifying agent that makes them readily suspendable in water. Flowable (F) fungicides are finely ground wettable powders that are suspended in a liquid.
Some soil fungicides are available as granules and are applied in the furrow at planting. Dust and spray fungicides may also be used as in furrow treatments for seedling disease control.
Never attempt to use dust formulations of fungicides in spray solutions. Dusts will not suspend in the spray solution. Wettable powder formulations may appear similar to dusts, but they are formulated to be suspended in spray solutions. Foliar sprays will aid in controlling leaf spots, rusts, mildews, anthracnose and fruit rots. Foliar sprays are not effective against vascular wilts or root rots. Foliar sprays are protectants, because they form a protective layer of fungicide over the surface of the fruit and foliage. Disease agents (bacteria and fungi) that land on these fungicide-coated surfaces are killed or prevented from infecting the plant.
Most fungicides are not effective in inhibiting disease organisms once they have infected a plant. It is imperative that foliar fungicides be applied prior to infection of the plant. A spray schedule should be followed that maintains a protective fungicide layer on the foliage and fruit during favorable infection periods. By carefully monitoring their vegetables, some gardeners can usually delay the first fungicide application until the first sign of disease. Then a 7-14 day spray schedule should be followed. During rainy or humid weather, spray application intervals should be shortened.
Proper pesticide mixing and spraying plays a very important part in achieving disease control. Most home gardeners will find a 1-2 gallon compressed-air sprayer adequate for applying foliar sprays. A nozzle with a cone pattern will provide the most effective coverage of plant foliage. Keep the pressure up to insure small spray particle size and good coverage.
Sprayers should be cleaned and rinsed after each use. Hose-end sprayers are not very effective in applying fungicides to vegetables. Never use the same sprayer for fungicides and insecticides that has been used for herbicides. Residues of certain types of herbicides are very difficult to remove from sprayers. These residues may cause crop injury if a herbicide-contaminated sprayer is used in applying fungicides or insecticides.


S #
English Name
Local Name
Time of Sowing
Time of Transplanting
Harvesting
1.
Apple Gourd
Tinda
Jan – July

March – Nov
2.
Beet root
Chuqander
July – Jan

Aug – April
3.
Bitter Gourd
Karaila
Nov – July

March – Nov
4.
Bottle Gourd
Lauki
Oct – April

Feb – Jan
5.
Brinjal
Baigun
June – March

Sept – July
6.
Cabbage
Bund Gobhi
July – Nov
Aug – Dec
Oct – April
7.
Carrot
Gajar
Aug – Dec

Sept – April
8.
Cauliflower
Phul Gobhi
Jun – Nov
July – Dec
Sept – March
9.
Chilies
Mirch
Feb – April & Aug – Oct
April – May & Oct – Dec
Sept – Dec & Dec – Feb
10.
Coriander
Dhanya
Aug – Feb

Sept-March
11.
Cucumber
Kheera
Jan – July

March – Oct
12.
Fenugreek
Methi
Aug – Dec

Sept-Feb
13.
Fresh Beans
Kidney Beans
Sept – Dec

Jan – Feb
14.
Garden Pea
Matar
Aug – Dec

Oct – March
15.
Garlic
Lehsan
Aug – Nov
Sept – Dec
April – May
16.
Lady Finger
Bhindi
Jan – March & July – Nov

March – Jan
17.
Lettuce
Salad
July – March
Aug-March
Oct-March
18.
Mint
Podina
Jan – March & Aug – Nov

Jan – Dec
19.
Musk Melon
Kharbuza
Nov – March

March – June
20.
Onion
Piaz
Aug – Nov
Sept – Dec
March – May
21.
Potato
Aaloo
Sept – Nov

June – March
22.
Radish
Mooli
July – Feb

Sept – March
23.
Spinach
Palak
June – July  & Aug - Dec  

Aug-Sept & up to March
24.
Sponge Gourd
Tori
Feb – Aug

April – Jan
25.
Tomato
Tamater
Feb – March & Aug – Oct
Marc – April & July – Nov
Whole Year
26.
Turnip
Shalgham
Aug – Dec

Sept – March
27.
Vegetable Marrow
Vilayati Kaddu
Nov – April

Feb – May
28.
Water Melon
Turbuz
Jan – March

May – July














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A M AWANA M AWANVisit My Site
A M Awan is Student of M Phil, He like gardening and like to read about Gardening, Agriculture, Entomology etc. Awan’s founder Chairman and CEO of Agriculture Information Bank, mission of Agriculture Information Bank is “To provide all information related to agriculture at one spot”
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